Having walked the Cornish Coastal Path, we were faced with a choice of continuing the coast path to Minehead or Poole, or closing the gap to circumnavigate Cornwall. We have chosen the latter.

The plan was to walk down the Tamar, as far as we are able. There was a slight problem. Whoever created the estuary – and Slartibartfast is the obvious culprit – did not allow for walkers.

The Lynher and a lack of bridges on the lower section creates a serious barrier to progress to the west. Ending a walk at Portwrinkle would not seem like a proper circumnavigation. The alternative was to cross the bridge at Saltash and complete the walk through Plymouth, a distance of four or five miles. Walking through a city did not appeal.

A long distance path was being planned and the helpful people working on the plan suggested a route and we are interpreting this. (Update: This was launched in July 2023 – The Tamara Coast to Coast Trail)

They suggested three links from the Coast Path:

• From Marsland Mouth where the Cornwall/Devon border meets the sea, via the source of the Tamar and then southwards
• From Duckpool, up the Coombe valley, through Kilkhampton joining the previous route at the Tamar lakes
• From Bude, up the Bude canal, meeting the main route at Marhamchurch

Each had its attractions but we decided to use the most northerly option: to pick up at Marsland Mouth which we reached on our coastal walk.

To avoid the walk through Plymouth, we stopped at the head of navigation just south of Gunnislake and canoed the last stretch to complete the circuit at Cremyll ferry.

The river does not mark the boundary between Cornwall and Devon for its whole length. There are chunks on either side which ‘belong’ to the other county. There is no convenient path following the river, either: the banks are jealously guarded by farmers and fishermen. You will see from the map that our route therefore swung widely to west and east. (Update: the Tamar trail has managed to negotiate a short cut or two)

Inevitably, the path crossed backwards and forwards between Cornwall and Devon. Despite our natural loyalty to Cornwall, we had to accept that the border is shared between the two counties. Crossing to the Anglo-Saxon side, we put our shoulders back, dress smartly and  watched our language hoping to reach the safety of Cornwall before nightfall.

Much of the route was on quiet country lanes, some comfortingly with grass in the middle. If one wanted the shortest route, it would be to walk the length of the ubiquitous B3254 from Kilkhampton to Launceston but this would very dull, even if one lived to tell the tale.

• Gooseham Mill to Moreton Pound (12 miles)
• Moreton Pound to Whitstone (9 miles)
• Whitstone to near Newbridge (11 miles)
• Newbridge to Milton Abbot (13 miles)
• Milton Abbot to Horsebridge (4 miles)
• Gunnislake to Horsebridge (5 miles)
• Around Gunnislake (1 mile)