Minster church

St Merteriana (St Materiana) is a gem, set amongst trees on the edge of a hill up the lovely Valency valley, a mile outside the village of Boscastle. The best way to reach it is almost certainly on foot along the valley from the main Boscastle car park but we drove and parked alongside.

The church seems to be glued to the edge of the hill and is surrounded with gravestones in the manner of St Just in Roseland but Minster is far more closely set about by trees – perhaps too closely as some of them creaked worryingly in the wind.

It is suggested that the saint herself lived hereabouts, perhaps on this very site and established the holy well where water gushes out of the hillside close to the east end of the church.

In due course, the hermitage developed into a small C13 priory, changing ownership frequently, before finally becoming a parish church. Falling into disrepair, it was rescued in the Victorian era under the guidance of JP St Aubyn who has actually achieved a sympathetic (for him) result.

Minster church: the nave

The interior is simple with a nave and C16 south aisle. St Aubyn hinted at the position of the rood screen with a single beam and thankfully there is no Victorian glass to darken the space. The rather charming positioning of the hassocks provides colour and interest to the otherwise mundane Victorian pews.

The approach to the sanctuary is up several steps but the simplicity of the space does not make it remote. In its north east corner is a deep Early English window set in thick masonry, hinting that this is part of the original priory church.

Minster church: the brass to Hender Robarts

There is a variety of interesting monuments from various dates, the most touching being a small brass, set on a wall, to Hender Robarts who died before his first birthday.

Minster church: the Norman font and some splendid slate memorials

Several excellent slate gravestones have been displayed on the walls around the simple Norman font in the south west corner while two C17 memorials involve Cotton couples kneeling face to face for all eternity.

Outside, we noted the large number of daffodils poking their heads above the abundant leaf mould and other sources suggest the area is a rich white when the wild garlic is out. Two more reasons to visit.

Confusingly, this tiny church is the mother church of Boscastle, rather than the larger St Symphorian in Forrabury which is much closer to the town centre. The saint also receives a dedication at Tintagel.

A journey through the landscape and history of Cornwall