Our relentless search for more rock-cut swimming pools took us to the Looe and Polperro area. But first, we needed to appease the gods by visiting Duloe church which has much to recommend it. And, since we were in the area, we could not resist St Cuby’s well or Duloe: Cornwall’s smallest stone circle.
It would be good to say that they were ‘all within walking distance’ but the walk to the well would probably end in disaster for the road is winding, downhill and with no pavement.
Millendreath was our next stop, a location we commented on unfavourably when we were walking the coast path. It hasn’t improved. the chalets still give the impression of a series of portacabins dumped on the side of the valley.
But our purpose was the tidal pool which is right next door to the beach. What we hadn’t expected was that it is indeed a tidal pool, rather than a rock pool. At low tide it was effectively empty, exposing a floor of small boulders and detritus.
No doubt at high tide, it is filled up and provides safe swimming for the young but without any benefit of water warmed by the sun (if any).
The observant will notice that a large pipe runs at the base of the sea wall and out to its extension, so the wall had a practical purpose. One hopes that the pipe is no longer in use.
We returned inland and made a repeat visit to the church of St Martin by Looe which had been closed last time we visited, and then onto Looe itself to admire St Nicholas in West Looe.
Our last visit was to an absolute gem: the Chapel pool at Polperro. On a sunny day, this was very high up our chart of rock pools: deep, retaining water at low tide, relatively easy access, clear water …
The pool is easy to find, just to the west of the harbour mouth. There are even signs. A steep rock staircase leads down to it.
The pool itself is several metres long and wide, providing a depth of water that would allow diving (with care), and a lovely sense of being an infinity pool. The water was crystal clear with no sign of kelp fronds or other nasties to hassle the swimmer.
We were joined by a couple of swimmers and a young gull – named Edgar by one of the visitors – who appeared unafraid of humans. Another of those humans demonstrated the delights of swimming for us.
Because it was so beautiful, you can have another image:
Talking of Polperro, we were shocked to discover that the large car park at the head of the valley at Crumplehorn wanted a minimum of £7 to park, and wanted it in cash (no cards accepted). We almost turned around but found a place to park (not telling) where such charges were not required. It is an undeniably pretty village, if you can ignore all the tourist shops reaching out for your money, and it was full of tourists so market forces apply, but we though this was ‘having a laugh’. Our sympathies to the permanent residents though.
Or do the sensible thing and approach Polperro along the coast path as we have done in the past.



















